Chulu West (6,419m/21,054ft) / Chulu East (6,584m/21,596ft)
THE CHULUS:
Chulu East and West Trekking Peak climb, Nepal peaks
climbing, around Annapurna circuit trek, organized treks,
and guided backpacking and mountaineering expeditions.
Area: Manang Himal
in the Annapurna Area.
These peaks are part of the Manang Himal, which
are quite rightly included in the larger Damodar Himal,
the eastern limit of which runs south from Chako and
Peak 6687 in a north-to-south direction along the Hunlung
Khola, Nar Khola and Phu Khola. To the south the Marsyangdi
Khola and the Mesokanta La bound it. To the west its
limit is the Kali Gandaki and to the north the Parchekya
La (5,447m/17870ft).
There exists considerable
confusion with regard to the name and location of the
Chulu peaks and what summit actually constitutes Chulu
West and Chulu East, since it is soon becomes apparent
to anyone that has climbed in the range that several
other summits close by, which are actually part of the
Chulu massif, are not indicated on present maps of the
area. For the sake of clarification, four summits can
be included in the Chulu group, two of which are possible
on the permit for Chulu West and two on the Chulu East
permit. What is apparent is that the available trekking
map is highly misleading.
The highest of these peaks,
marked Chulu West (6419m/21,054ft) on the trekking maps,
has a recorded altitude from at least two expeditions
of nearer 6400m (20,997ft); this might more accurately
be called Chulu Central. The NMA gives this an official
altitude of 6,429m (21,060ft).
Many climbers are confused
as to the exact location of these two peaks as the range
has 4 or more summits in the immediate vicinity, which
are unmarked in maps of this area. As a result many
climbing parties have mistakenly climbed one of these
peaks thinking it to be Chulu East or West. It usually
understood that with the permit to climb the East or
West peak an attempt could be made to the nearby peak
as well.
A climb of one or both
of these peaks combined with Nepal's most famous Arround
the Annapurna trek make up for one of the most spectacular
Himalayan trekking and climbing outings. Allow about
25 to 30 days to complete this climb and trek.
Chulu West:
The obvious approach to this peak diverges from the
main trail to the Thorung La pass past the village of
Manang and Base Camp is established in a small valley
to the North. From base camp the route follows a subsidery
Northwest ridge that leads up to the main peak. An attempt
to the peak and return has been done in a single day,
as setting camp up on the slope above base camp is not
easy. An attempt of Chulu Central peak (6,429m/21,060ft)
just east of Chulu West.
Chulu East:
The North-East Ridge is considered the normal route
to climb this peak from a Base Camp on the moranis at
5334m (17500ft). Most climbers make it to the top and
back from Base Camp in one long day although some have,
in the past, established a higher camp somewhere below
the peak. Another subsidery peak called Chulu Far East
(6059m) 19880ft) may also be attempted from this approach.
|
Chulu
West / Chulu East Climbing Itinerary |
| Day 01 : |
Drive to Besisar from Kathmandu. |
| Day 02- 07 : |
Trek up the Marsyangdi Valley to Manang
village. |
| Day 08 : |
Rest and acclimatization day at Manang. |
| Day 09 : |
Trek to Chulu East or West Base Camp. |
| Day 10-12 : |
Climb Chulu East or West peak. |
| Day 13-15 : |
Trek over Thorung La pass to Muktinath and
Jomsom. |
| Day 16 : |
Fly Jomsom to Pokhara. |
| OR |
| Day 16-20 : |
Trek down the Kali Gandai valley to Pokhara. |
|
Package includes:
- Accommodation on room sharing
basis on B&B plan in Kathmandu.
- All-inclusive full board tented
camp trek with sleeping tent, dining tent, toilet
tent, food and bedding as per itinerary Services of
Sirdar, cook, Shera staff and porters or yaks while
on trek. All kitchen utensils / materials along with
tables and chairs.
- Transportation, KTM - Base Camp
- KTM of all equipment, food, staff and porters.
- Local taxes, guide & porters'
insurance. National Park fee, Royalty of the Peak,
equipment allowance of climbing
guide, necessary equipment and clothing for camp staff
and porters. Common used climbing equipment. (fixed
ropes, ice screws, pitons, etc.)
- All transportation in Kathmandu
as per program.
Package does not include:
- Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
- Expenses of personal nature.
- Domestic airport departure taxes.
- Personal tips
- Alcoholic beverages and canned
or bottled cold drinks.
- International departure taxes.
- Personal climbing equipment.
(Can be rented in Kathmandu)
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